Cosy Tortoises

The Cosy Tortoises Shop is our new easy way to buy Grow your own Tortoise Food Seeds

New exciting Herb collection and Herb mixes available!

See the Grow your own Tortoise Food section in the Shop

The Cosy Tortoises Shop has a secure payment method

Alternatively, you can order your Grow your own Tortoise Food Seeds by Contacting us

cosytortoises@btinternet.com

phone - 01890 818584

Heating for Tortoises

Tortoises are cold blooded reptiles and therefore cannot generate heat in their bodies.  They require a heat source in order to be active and thrive.

In their natural habitats tortoises source of heat is from the sun.   Some people think that the top of a tortoises’ shell acts rather like a solar panel.  Tortoises come from many parts of the world where the sunlight is more intense than in the UK, so during the day higher temperatures are normal.  The UK has a temperate, variable weather pattern that is generally too cool for tortoises and lacking in UVA and UVB for most of the year.

Therefore to keep tortoises healthy and capable of digesting food well, it is essential that heating sources are readily available for tortoises at all times (except for in hibernation).

Over time, tortoises will learn to know where the heat source is, so it is a good idea to have a permanent position for the heat lamp.

There are many different types of heat sources available, but in this blog we will only consider ones which are designed for tortoises - dome reflector heat-lamps with Infra Red bulbs connected to a dimmer thermostat.

A dome reflector will direct heat downwards towards the ground rather than heating above and around.  It is paramount that the heat-lamp is fitted with a dimmer thermostat that gradually changes the power to the lamp and maintains the required intensity when established (rather than switching the bulb off when the required temperature is reached).  This will allow you to set up the correct temperature range for your tortoise and provide effective basking.  Heat-lamps can vary in size allowing different sized basking spots of heat on the ground that should be adjusted depending on the size of tortoise.  It may be necessary to have more than one heat-lamp depending on the floor space for where the tortoise is living.

The ground under any heat source should be a material that is not a fire risk with over-heating.  Soil and sand are good, but if a layer is used over a wood layer or other housing material then a heat resistant tile may be used to protect them.  Any soil or sand layer on the floor (substrate) directly under a heat-lamp will heat up and get dry so it is a good idea to wet that area carefully if your tortoises can tolerate a high humidity environment.  Alternatively, changing the substrate directly under a heat-lamp more frequently than the rest may be necessary.

With any set-up, the tortoise will need a cool area that is at least ten degrees lower than their basking temperature.  This will give the tortoise the option to move away from the heat-lamp and choose what temperature they want to be.

Heat-lamps are not suitable for outside use, unless they are protected from wet weather at all times.  Sitting a heat-lamp inside an All-Season House with a Sunroom is ideal.  Heat-lamps should be fitted with a circuit breaker to protect your house electrics in case a fault develops somewhere in the electric circuit.  Ideally you should employ a qualified electrician to put a permanent outdoor socket in your garden beside the tortoise house that has its own dedicated trip fuse.

We would recommend Infra Red (IR) bulbs because the tortoise cannot see Infra Red.  Your tortoise needs heat day and night.  A combined heat and UV bulb can be an issue because the UV should not be on at night time but you still need the heat.  Combined heat and UV bulbs are far more expensive than an IR bulbs and cannot be used with a dimmer thermostat.

Digital thermometers should be used to monitor the temperature at all times preferably with an alarm system that is triggered if the temperature is too high or low.

Finally, it is important to remember that different species of tortoises will have different temperature range requirements.  This is usually based on their natural habitat, so Mediterranean species generally bask between 24-30 degrees C and have a preferred background temperature of around 15 degrees C with an absolute minimum of 10 degrees C.  Tropical tortoises are similar but some species can need a higher basking spot up to about 35 degrees C, but usually require a higher humidity and background temperature above 20 degrees C.  Some African tortoises do well being treated like Tropical tortoises and others that come from drier habitats like Egyptian tortoises require access to high UV and lower humidity (drier) environments, with a greater temperature range to mimic the hotter daytime and cooler overnight temperatures in the desert.

Custom Large Window All-Season House

The price for this set-up is £1800. A custom made order. For more details please contact Cosy Tortoises.

Simple Hibernation Tips for Tortoises:

Hibernation is a natural and essential part of a tortoises’s life.

Not all tortoises can be hibernated.  Tropical tortoises such as Redfoots, Indian Stars and several African species must not be hibernated because they don’t need to in their natural habitat.

Before commencing the hibernation process, always seek a health check with your reptile specialist vets.

Never hibernate tortoises that have been ill within the last 12 months.

Never hibernate a tortoise that is under-weight. There are a few weight charts that are available to determine if a tortoise is under-weight.  For example the Jackson Ratio for Hermann and Spur-Thigh Tortoises only, and the Macintyre ratio for Horsefield tortoises only.  The best way is to weigh your tortoises at least monthly, so you will know if they are underweight after eating well all summer.  Of course, worms can mean a tortoise can weigh deceptively heavy.  Worming should be carried out at least 6 weeks prior to starvation.

It is important not to feed a tortoise 2 to 4 weeks before hibernation depending on their age.  Weighing them every few days until their weight stops reducing, will give you a good indication when their gut is empty.  They must still have access to water as usual.  Most tortoises stop eating of their own accord in preparation for hibernation.

Use a dry box that is well ventilated with a secure lid.  Place insulation like unprinted shredded paper that allows plenty airflow inside (don’t pack it too tightly and make sure there are no small/dust particles for the tortoise to breathe accidentally).  Another box should be placed inside this box with the tortoise inside.  Again well ventilated.  Always use a digital temperature probe that can record the temperature inside the tortoises’ box.  You can buy digital thermometers that will connect to your phone with a good Wifi connection.

Keep box in a cool dry secure area away from heating and windows particular in direct sunlight.  Keep dry at all times.   A garage or shed can be ideal, but they must be protected from frost.  Ideal hibernation temperature range is between 3 to 5 degrees C.  If the temperature falls below zero there is a risk of permanent damage or death.  Too warm will use up vital food storage in the tortoise's body.

Hibernation normally last for approximately 12 weeks (temperature dependant).

During hibernation check your tortoise weekly.  Weigh your tortoise weekly too.  5% weight loss indicates that your tortoise is losing too much weight and will be need to be removed from hibernation.

Female tortoises that may be carrying eggs must never be hibernated until you are fully certain that there are no more eggs to lay.  It is also recommended that young hatchlings are not hibernated in the first year.

If in any doubt about the health of your tortoise, always seek the professional advise of a reptile specialist vet.  At the end of the hibernation period it is a good idea to have a check-up anyway.